Wiring Depot Tech Articles

How to Build a Sealed Battery Cable

2024-09-12T02:00:00-05:00

Corroded battery cables are often the culprit behind no-start and other electrical issues in your car or truck.

Finding pre-built cables with the length, gauge, and ends you need is often impossible. Building your own used to mean expensive crimp tools, or resorting to ‘hack’ methods like crushing ends in a vice.

We offer an alternative. Pre-measured solder pellets and dual/thick 3:1 heat shrink tubing make it easy to build cables to your needs that will likely be far superior to the OE crimped cables.

Tools Needed:

Cable cutter / stripper
Propane or MAPP torch like the ones commonly used for plumbing
Vice
Protective clothing, gloves, and eyewear
Electrical Flux

Supplies Needed:

Battery Cable
Copper lug or cast terminals of matching gauge
Solder pellets of matching gauge
3:1 Dual/Heavy heat shrink tubing

Process:

Cut your cable to the desired length. Strip enough insulation off the cable so that 1/8”-1/4” of wire is exposed when it is fully inserted into the lug/terminal.
Slide your heat shrink tubing onto the cable if the other end isn’t small enough to put it on afterward.
Clamp the lug/terminal in a vice.
Apply flux to the exposed copper on the cable, and a light amount in the lug/terminal opening.
Preheat the lug for 10-20 seconds
Carefully insert the solder pellet into the open end of the HOT lug
Apply heat until the solder pellet is fully melted and the flux is bubbling
Insert cable end into lug/terminal
Apply more heat while continuing to push the cable into the lug/terminal. It will likely seat further as you remelt the solder. Look for solder to wick up the cable strands somewhat.
Slide Heat shrink over the exposed area.
Heat the Heat shrink until it has contracted over the cable and you see some sealant seeping out the ends.
Allow to cool.

Trailer Wiring Types - 4, 5, 6, and 7 Way Wiring

2024-01-09T16:42:18-06:00

There are a wide variety of trailer connectors. They can include anywhere from 2 to 7 wires. The type you use will be determined by the needs of your vehicle and trailer. Here we will cover some of the most common types. Below is a diagram of the typical 4 or 5 way trailer wiring. You should always confirm the actual wiring of your trailer before making a connection. Never assume the trailer or your vehicle is wired according to standards.

4 Way Trailer Connectors:

4 Way trailer connectors are very common. They can handle the needs of basic boat and utility trailers. The allow for the hookup of three lighting functions – running lights, turn signals, and brake lights. Both flat style and round style connectors are available as 4 way. There are adapters available to adapt a 4 way wired trailer to a 7 way wired truck.

5 Way Trailer Connectors:

5 Way connectors handle the same lighting functions as 4 way and the extra wire / pin is available to handle another function. Typically the 5 Way connectors are used for trailers with surge brakes – the additional wire is tapped into the backup lights to trigger the disengagement of the braking system. This type of wiring is less common now and if you are wiring a trailer, you should consider wiring it to the more common 7 way plugs.

6 Way Trailer Connectors:

In addition to basic lighting functions, 6 Way trailer connectors include two extra wires/pins. Typically these are used for electric brakes and a 12V power lead. 6 Way round connectors are commonly found on horse trailers, whereas the flat style are seen more on campers. This type of wiring is less common now and if you are wiring a trailer, you should consider wiring it to the more common 7 way plugs.

7 Way Trailer Connectors:

In addition to basic lighting functions, 7 Way trailer connectors have three extra wires / pins. These can be used for electric brakes, 12V power, and backup lights. Round pin connectors exist, but are uncommon. Most feature flat blade type connectors. This is the most common style now wired onto new vehicles. You can get an adapter that will adapt your 7 way wired vehicle, to a 4 way wired trailer.

What is the difference between Starter/Battery cable and Welding cable?

2020-06-04T12:37:00-05:00

Starter or Battery Cable VS. Welding Cable

Short version – unless you need a 600V capacity, or extreme flexibility, welding cable is expensive overkill for most automotive applications.

Welding cable has the same amount of copper as Starter (Battery) cable of the same gauge. They can carry the same amperage in a 12V or 24V application.

Welding cable was developed for welding tools that required higher voltage (600V), be very flexible, and withstand constant movement. In most automotive applications, you are only dealing with 12V or 24V, and once the cable is installed, it doesn’t need to flex much.

What gives Welding cable its flexibility is its construction consisting of more and finer strands than standard starter cable. For instance, our 2 GA standard starter cable is constructed of 64 strands of 20 GA wire. A 2 GA ‘Welding’ cable is constructed of 651 strands of 30 GA wire (remember that as gauge numbers get larger, the wire diameter gets smaller – see this article for a more in depth explanation).

So the major benefit welding cable offers the automotive applications is its flexibility. If you have to route your starting cables through a series of tight bends, then welding cable might be worth considering. It certainly has a nice feel and is easy to work with. It is up to you to decide if those features are worth the significant price increase.

A good quality starter cable is capable of handling most automotive applications. Many people compare welding cable to their old, dried out, hardened, and corroded cables. Compounding the issue, inexpensive starter cables might be constructed of CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum – see more info in this article) which, due to its aluminum construction is stiffer than even standard starting cable. (FYI – the starter cable we sell is 100% copper and not CCA wire.) So, in reality, a good quality starter cable is likely more than flexible enough for most applications.

In our experience when most people physically handle a good quality starter cable and consider the cost difference, they find end up going with standard starter cable.

Heat Shrink Applications for the HVAC Industry

2020-03-09T10:07:00-05:00

Heat Shrink Applications for the HVAC Industry

The market for heat shrink terminals has been growing consistently. We have seen steady increases in this category – over 80% in the past five years. For many working with wiring it is considered the RIGHT way to do a job and ensure it is a permanent solution. Regular nylon crimp terminals have become considered by some as “cheap” or “hack”.

So why has the HVAC industry been slower to adopt heat shrink terminals? They are sometimes perceived as an automotive item, however they are not specific to any one industry. In fact, ANY application of wiring terminals can benefit from the use of heat shrink.

Since most of HVAC wiring isn’t directly exposed to the elements, the sealing aspect of heat shrink isn’t as much of a concern as it is in the automotive market. However, sealing from corrosion is not the only benefit heat shrink offers. Another benefit that heat shrink specifically offer the HVAC market are to ensure a secure, consistent connection that is less reliant on the technician’s skill with a crimper. With heat shrink terminals the sealant better secures the wire preventing wire pull out due to someone tugging/snagging it, or from temperature cycles. Many hours spent tracking down loose or intermittent connections could be avoided by using heat shrink terminals.

One way to maximize the benefits of heat shrink terminals is our 5023F Ratcheting Crimp Tool. It will only release when a proper crimp has been attained. It won’t overcrimp or undercrimp. Overcrimping heat shrink is of particular concern as you can split the heat shrink insulation and the sealant will seep out when heated. This tool removes the need to for a technician to develop that ‘feel’ for a properly crimped terminal.

We have found that as soon as experienced technicians realize the benefits, they prefer working with heat shrink terminals as it ensures they won’t be called back to a job for a repeat complaint. It allows them to offer their customers a higher quality of service and differentiate themselves from the competition.

Automotive Split Loom Tubing Color Codes

2019-08-13T09:12:00-05:00

Automotive Split Loom Tubing Color Codes:

Auto manufacturers now code the tubing colors on new cars to call attention to higher voltage circuits. This protects service people from shocks and damaged equipment – much test equipment are designed for 12v or 24v systems. Also this protects first responders when extracting people after a crash.

Black with stripe – high temp for underhood applications (Nylon tubing)

Blue or Yellow – Higher voltage circuits up to 42V – Power steering motors, diesel injectors

Orange – Very high voltage 144v - 650V – Hybrid and electric vehicles. Use caution when working with wiring covered in orange tubing. Electrical shock from these systems can cause serious injury, fires, or even death. Note standard electrical test equipment may not be able to handle the voltage present in hybrid electrical systems.

Pink – Anti bacterial, used in vehicles like food trucks

Unfortunately colored high temp nylon tubing is not currently available in the retail market. Standard PET is available in a variety of colors, but care must be taken to keep it away from high heat sources.

How to Find Your Socket

2019-08-09T12:38:00-05:00

How to find the socket you need:

We get calls on a daily basis that go like this, “Hi, I have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe and I need the socket that connects to the ….”

Unfortunately we can’t utilize this info to guide you to the appropriate socket. The Year/Make/Model approach works when you need brake pads, but not so much with individual electrical connectors. Data like this is published by the manufacturers themselves, and they deal in wiring assemblies, rather than one socket on the assembly. So, even if you look at manufacturer’s service data, you will find that section of the wiring is listed as an entire subassembly that likely costs hundreds of dollars at the dealership.

This issue is compounded because many sockets were used across many years and models, and even by competing manufacturers. Sometimes they changed mid-year, or with different vehicle options. Application specific data just doesn’t apply in most cases.

So how do you find the one you are looking for? Here a few tips that my help.

If it holds a bulb, try searching for that bulb number. For instance if the socket uses an ‘1157’ bulb, try entering that in the search bar in the upper right. That will bring up all sockets we have listed that take an 1157 bulb.
If you do have a manufacturer part number, search for that. Numbers on the socket typically aren’t helpful as they are just casting numbers.
There are some generic connector types used over many years. Those connectors can often be found in their own category. We stock WeatherPack, MetriPack and Deutsch type connectors kits.
Our sockets are also grouped by use and by number of wires to help you narrow down the potential matches.
Always visually confirm the socket matches before ordering. Data in the product listings like year ranges tend to be very general. Manufacturers changed sockets mid year and among different models/options.

Still not finding the one you need? Here are some options:

If the housing is not damaged, you can consider repairing the existing socket. The terminals can all be removed with some fiddling and the proper tool. A sewing “T-pin” can get many of them with some fiddling. If there is a second color on the terminal, start there as that is typically a secondary lock. For instance if the terminal is black with some grey, the grey portion is likely a locking section that needs to be removed before individual pin terminals.
A salvage yard may be an option. However if you are replacing a terminal because it is old, dried, and crumbling, the ones you find at the salvage yard are likely just as bad.
If it is just a connection that joins one group of wires to another, you could cut out the entire connector and replace with a new one. Our Deutsch style connector kits would be a good option in this case.
If the socket you need to replace has a ground wire (a two wire socket with a single filament bulb, or a three wire socket with a two filament bulb), you may be able to add a ground wire by soldering it to the metal housing.
Try searching enthusiast forums. If the socket is found on a vintage mustang or other collectible car, chances are other people have had the same issue and may have found a solution.
Find something that is close but not quite? A bit of grinding can sometimes make it work. Drilling out a hole can sometimes make the slightly too large socket fit.

What you should know about CCA and OFC Wire

2019-03-05T13:48:00-06:00

Copper Coated Aluminum (CCA) and Oxygen Free Copper Wire

Purchasing wire can be confusing. In addition to gauge and insulation type, we are now seeing designations like “CCA” and “OFC” applied. This article will attempt to clarify a few of these.

Copper Coated Aluminum

Copper is a commodity and the most expensive component in wire. So if a particular wire is significantly cheaper than others, you should be concerned about what you are actually getting. In our industry, we have seen wire mislabeled as the heavier gauge, or have excessively thick insulation to make it appear more than it is. Lately, in many cases, inexpensive wire is actually “CCA” wire.

‘CCA’ is Copper Clad/Coated Aluminum wire. This is ALUMINUM wire with a very thin coating of copper. At a glance it can appear the same as pure copper wire. The price may look attractive, but keep in mind that aluminum is only about 60% as conductive as copper. This means to carry the same load, you’d have to use a significantly heavier gauge wire, which can eliminate much of the cost savings. Substituting CCA wire for the same gauge copper wire is dangerous and can lead to burnt wiring or fires.

In addition is it less flexible than copper so it is harder to work with and the individual strands can break when overly flexed. It can also be more prone to corrosion. Although it may have some uses for AC wiring or applications where weight is a major issue, we feel the cost savings of CCA wire is not worth the downsides for general automotive use. We do not offer any CCA wire.

Regarding Oxygen Free Wire

You might see some places advertising OFC or Oxygen Free Copper Wire. Is this a worthwhile upgrade over ‘standard’ 100% copper wire?

For speaker wire, depending on who you ask, there may be some benefit to OFC wire.

According to Roger Russell, Electrical Engineer and Director of Acoustic Research at McIntosh Laboratory, even expensive "highly refined copper with silver impurities removed, and oxygen reduced to 0.0005%, has only one percent higher conductivity." And is "INSIGNIFICANT in audio applications." So it certainly isn’t a factor in powering an automotive accessory.

There is a more detailed discussion of the topic in THIS ARTICLE.

We’ll leave it up to you to determine if Oxygen Free wire is worthwhile in your speaker wiring. For non-audio use like powering your new light bar, there is no benefit to OFC and it is not worth paying a premium for.

For the record, Battery Cable, Primary, SXL, and Motor/1015 wire sold by Wiring Depot is all US made, 100% pure copper wire that is guaranteed to be true to spec. Most of our wire is produced by East Penn Manufacturing, although we do occasionally source from other US suppliers.

Fusible Link Wire FAQs

2018-12-10T16:45:00-06:00

We get many questions about fusible link wire. Below are some that we get most frequently.

What is a Fusible Link?
A fusible link is a short piece of insulated low-voltage cable within an automotive wiring harness that is designed to protect the harness in applications where a fuse is unsuitable. In an extreme current overload situation, the conductor within the link is melted while the ensuing flame and spark is contained within the link's insulation.

What are the ratings for fusible links?
Fusible links are not rated in amps like fuses because each installation is unique and designed to meet specific circuit protection requirements.

What size replacement fusible link should be used?
The automotive service industry recommends using the same gauge and length as the blown fusible link after the cause of failure is corrected. There is some specific engineering that goes into determining what gauge and length of fusible link wire is used. If your application is otherwise stock, it is best to directly replace your fusible link wire with one of the same specifications. However it is important to determine what caused the original one to fail so you don’t burn it out again.

If your application is not stock, you can do some more research to see if you can determine the appropriate fusible link wire to use. Although we don’t necessarily recommend this course of action, another option is to use a Maxi Fuse or Breaker in place of the fusible link wire. Generally people go with a fuse or breaker rated at about 10% greater than the output of the alternator. But proceed with caution as fuses/breakers are not necessarily a direct replacement for fusible links, and could lead to damage to the vehicle, including a fire.

We are sorry but we cannot give specific recommendations regarding which fusible link wire to use other than to go with the OEM spec.

Can a blown fusible link be replaced with a MAXI fuse?
While "MAXI" fuses have replaced most factory-installed fusible links in late model vehicles, they have different performance characteristics than fusible links and should not be used to replace them unless specifically authorized by a vehicle factory service bulletin. Fusible links continue to be used in most starting circuit applications.

Can Type SXL primary wire be used to replace a fusible link?
SXL wire would work as an emergency replacement, but it would not have the required "Fusible Link" markings and the insulation would not be designed to contain flame and spark in the event of a circuit failure.

What size fusible link should be used in a new installation?
The suitability of a fusible link in a new application can be determined only by a qualified harness engineer with full knowledge of the circuit protection requirements, the installation and operating conditions, and the safety and liability aspects. We cannot make specific recommendations.

Are there any general guidelines for choosing a suitable fusible link?
Typically, a given harness segment is protected by fusible link that is four gauge numbers smaller. A 14-gauge wire would be protected by an 18-gauge fusible link. A 6-gauge wire would be protected by a 10-gauge link, and so on. Odd number wire gauge sizes like 19, 15, 13 and 11 are counted when sizing a link. The length of a fusible link should not exceed 9".

Can a fusible link be used to replace a fuse that blows frequently?
In general, a fusible link should never be used to replace an automotive fuse unless authorized by a vehicle factory service bulletin. Safety and liability issues are involved.

Where can I find more technical information on automotive fusible links?
Specifications relating to conductors, insulation, wire size, length, location termination, identification and testing are spelled out in SAE Specification J156, The Society of Automotive Engineers' web address is www.sae.org.

Weather Pack Terminal FAQs

2018-05-31T09:16:00-05:00

What is "Weather Pack"?

Weather Pack is an environmentally sealed electrical connection system developed by Packard Electric engineers (now Delphi/Packard Electric Systems) to withstand exposure to extreme temperatures, moisture, and harsh engine compartment fluids and chemicals. They are extensively used in severe duty applications including racing, construction, off-road, and industrial equipment.

Weather Packs mate heat stabilized polyamide housings (Weather Pack “towers and shrouds”), male and female “pin and socket” Weather Pack terminals and self-lubricating silicone Weather Pack connector seals, cable seals and cavity plugs. The connectors are made of a nylon material for the best combination of temperature resistance and flexibility. They have been tested to withstand temperatures of -40C to 125C. The terminals are tin-plated and utilize flex pin and lap lock designs to provide the highest reliability. Their dual locking tangs securely hold the terminal inside the connector cavity. Weather Pack self-lubricating seals feature multiple sealing ribs and will not stain, deteriorate or corrode other materials.

The system is rated 0.05–16.0 VDC, 0-20A. Weather Pack connector configurations are available for one to six wires

Why are the Weather Pack connectors called Towers or Shrouds instead of male or female connectors?

The use of the "Tower and Shroud" nomenclature eliminates confusion with gender specific connectors. Weather Pack towers are most often used with female terminals but they can also be used with male terminals. Weather Pack shrouds are most often used with male terminals but they can also be used with female terminals. It is even possible to use both male and female terminals in a single multi-circuit Tower or Shroud.

I’ve ordered Weather Pack terminals and connectors. Do I need anything else?

Weather Pack terminals are ALWAYS used with Weather Pack cable seals. One is required for each terminal, male or female. You might also want to order a Weather Pack release tool in case you need to disassemble a completed Weather Pack termination for inspection or rework. The Weather Pack release tool depresses the terminal retention barbs and allows the Weather Pack terminals to be removed from the connectors.

How do I choose the right size cable seal?

The choice of cable seal is determined by the insulation diameter of the wire being used. The guidelines offered below apply to Weather Pack and Sealed Metri-Pack 280 Series installations.

F or Type GPT and GXL wire, the red seal normally fits 22 gauge; the green seal normally fits 20, 18, and 16 gauge; the gray seal normally fits 14 gauge; and the blue seal normally fits 12 gauge.

For heavier wall Type SXL wire, the green seal normally fits 20 and 18 gauge; the gray seal normally fits 16 gauge; and the blue seal normally fits 14 and 12 gauge.

For thin-wall wire construction such as Type TXL, the red seal normally fits 20 gauge; the green seal normally fits 18, 16 and 14 gauge; the gray seal normally fits 12 gauge; and the blue seal normally fits 10 gauge.

The installer must be certain that the seal fits snugly over the wire insulation to maintain a proper environmental seal.

This sounds rather complicated, is there a simpler way?

I you just need to repair an existing weather pack connection, consider getting a 'pigtail'. This consists of a pre-built connector with wires already attached. You simply need to use butt connector terminals to splice it into your application. You can find them HERE. We suggest using Heat Shrink Terminals to maintain the sealed electrical system.

What is the maximum current rating for Weather Pack connectors?

Delphi Packard Electric Systems rates Weather Pack at 0 - 20 amps maximum.

Why is Weather Pack available in 12-gauge if the maximum current rating is only 20 amps?

The 12-gauge Weather Pack terminals are designed for signal voltages where conductor reliability is critical. A larger conductor will provide a clearer signal than a smaller one. The 12-gauge Weather Pack terminals should not be used in high-current applications that would normally use 12-gauge wire.

Is there a sealed connection system that will carry more than Weather Pack's 20 amps?

Consider our Deutsch connector kits for applications over 20 amps.

Why are there slits on some of the individual towers on Weather Pack tower connectors?

The slits are called indexing slots and they prevent mismating. A Weather Pack tower connector will only fit the matching Weather Pack shroud connector.

What do the Weather Pack tower connector colors signify?

Colors are used with application-specific Weather Pack connectors to make them look different from the standard tower connectors. The colored connectors are designed to fit devices such as switches or sensors. They feature special indexing and are not interchangeable with the standard black tower connectors.

I’m looking for Weather Packs with flat male blade terminals or square profile female terminals. Do you have them?

The Weather Pack system uses only round pin terminals or round socket terminals. If a sealed connector without round terminals is marked "DELPHI" or "P.E.D.," it could be a Metri-Pack, a GT or a Ducon series connector.

My sample is marked ">PA 66< 96". Do you stock this part?

This marking identifies the connector material Polyamide 6/6 (a.k.a. Nylon) and the mold cavity number. This is not enough information to identify a component. Delphi/Packard Electric Systems' part numbers are typically 8 digits such as "12124582."

Is there a simple way to repair a Weather Pack Connection? Yes, consider using a pigtail assembly, like the ones we offer HERE. Simply splice this in place of your current connector. We suggest using Crimp & Solder Seal butt connectors to maintain the sealed connection.

Do I need a crimp tool made specifically for Weather Pack?

Not necessarily. Many open barrel crimp tools can perform an acceptable Weather Pack wire crimp. A Weather Pack seal crimp can be made with common slip joint pliers. Note that the seal crimp should be just firm enough to hold the seal in place. A tight seal crimp can damage the seal. Professional tools made specifically for Weather Packs crimp both the terminal and the seal in one cycle.

What does a proper Weather Pack crimp look like?

Deciphering Ring Terminal 'Stud Size'

2018-01-22T10:12:00-06:00

Suppose you need some ring terminals or copper lugs to complete your project. You find the type you are looking for, then realize they are available in a huge variety of dimensions. In addition to finding one that utlizes the gauge of wire you have, you must also determine what size the hole needs to be in the ring. So how to proceed? Hopefully this article will shed some light on ring terminal stud sizing.

Ring terminals often utilize the US Custom Stud Size format for the smaller rings before switching to a more conventional fractional inch system. So how is a person to know if they need a #8 or #10 stud size ring terminal if they don't know what size the stud is? Or for that matter 1/4" or 3/16"?

First, be aware that the dimension listed means the ring terminal can work for that corresponding stud or bolt. For instance if you are attaching the terminal to a 1/4" stud, you use a 1/4" terminal. The opening of a ring terminal is sightly oversized so it will fit easily over a bolt with the same listed dimension.

So if you don't know what the stud is, you'll have to measure. A set of calipers is ideal for this task and they can be had for under $20. Calipers are one of those tools many people do without, but once you have a set, you'll find you use it more frequently than you imagined. If you don't have a set of calipers, you can usually get pretty close with a tape measure or ruler.

If you are in doubt which ring size to get, go for the larger option. Although it is best to use a terminal that fits rather snug over the stud, a slightly oversized one will usually work just fine.

Here is a chart that shows the actual ring terminal sizing:

Automotive Blade Type Fuses

2017-11-16T15:02:00-06:00

Fuses protect your vehicle from dangerous situations that could result in shocks, burnt circuits, or even fires. There are many types of fuses including glass tube fuses, blade fuses, fusible links, and others.

For this article we will focus on blade type fuses as these are most common in modern cars. Blade type fuses come in these main types:

Maxi Fuses - these are the largest fuses and are used in heavy duty or higher amperage situations. In many cars you will see one or two maxi fuses as main fuses, then smaller ATC or mini fuses for the individual circuits.

ATC/ATO Fuses - These are the first type of blade fuses and were patented by Littelfuse in the 1970s. They are found in a large amount of cars and trucks made in the 80s and later.

Mini Fuses - Smaller in size than ATC fuses, these fit into tight applications. They cover most of the same amperages as ATC fuses.

Micro Fuses - Even smaller sized than Minis, they also are available in smaller amperages.

With any of the blade fuses it is possible to replace one fuse with any other amperage fuse. This sure is tempting if you have a fuse that has blown multiple times, but this can be dangerous. Fuses are designated for that size circuit. A blowing fuse is an indicator of an issue in that circuit. Check for shorts, faulty accessories (fan motors that are ending their lifespan often cause this), or 'additions' to the circuit that are now placing too high of a demand on it.

Fuse Color Coding:

Blade fuses are color coded by amperage rating. This makes it easy to match up a replacement fuse. Here is a chart of the different colors and amperages available by fuse type:

Indicator or "Smart Glow" Fuses:

Fuse blocks are often located in pretty inconvient places. If you suspect you have a blown fuse, it can be challenging to find the culprit. Pulling and inspecting them may lead you to the right one, but sometimes it can be tough to visually identify a blown fuse. Indicator fuses, often listed under the brand name 'Smart Glow' solve this problem. When they blow, they actually light a small LED in the fuse body. Simply replace the one that is lit up and you can be on your way.

How to Build a Sealed Battery Cable

2017-08-22T10:56:00-05:00

Corroded battery cables are often the culprit behind no-start and other electrical issues in your car or truck.

We offer an alternative. Pre-measured solder pellets and dual/thick 3:1 heat shrink tubing make it easy to build cables to your needs that will likely be far superior to the OE crimped cables.

Tools Needed:

Cable cutter / stripper
Propane or MAPP torch like the ones commonly used for plumbing
Vice
Protective clothing, gloves, and eyewear
Electrical Flux

Supplies Needed:

Battery Cable
Copper lug or cast terminals of matching gauge
Solder pellets of matching gauge
3:1 Dual/Heavy heat shrink tubing

Process:

Cut your cable to the desired length. Strip enough insulation off the cable so that 1/8”-1/4” of wire is exposed when it is fully inserted into the lug/terminal.
Slide your heat shrink tubing onto the cable if the other end isn’t small enough to put it on afterward.
Clamp the lug/terminal in a vice.
Apply flux to the exposed copper on the cable, and a light amount in the lug/terminal opening.
Preheat the lug for 10-20 seconds
Carefully insert the solder pellet into the open end of the HOT lug
Apply heat until the solder pellet is fully melted and the flux is bubbling
Insert cable end into lug/terminal
Apply more heat while continuing to push the cable into the lug/terminal. It will likely seat further as you remelt the solder. Look for solder to wick up the cable strands somewhat.
Slide Heat shrink over the exposed area.
Heat the Heat shrink until it has contracted over the cable and you see some sealant seeping out the ends.
Allow to cool.

Understanding Toggle Switches

2017-06-12T13:21:00-05:00

Toggle switches are a simple way to activate accessories in your car. There are many ways they can be used and wired. Here we will go through some basic applications and switch types. Note the included diagrams are for reference only. Always make sure you are using a switch and wire sufficient to handle the power you are carrying. In higher draw applications, a relay may be utilized.

Illuminated Rocker Switch Wiring

Relay Uses and Wiring

If you have any doubts, go to a professional. Improper wiring can damage your vehicle’s electrical system or cause a fire.

1. SPST Toggle switch (Singe Position, Single Throw)

A SPST switch is a simple On – Off switch. They typically have two terminals. One is for input, the other for output.

In one position the switch is ‘Open’ and no connection is made, and no power can flow to the accessory. In the other position the two terminals are connected and power can flow through.

Here is an example of how a SPST might be wired to power a light.

===================================================================================

2. SPDT Toggle Switch (Single Position, Dual Throw)

A SPDT is a bit more sophisticated. It makes one of two connections. Here is a diagram of a SPDT toggle switch.

Terminal 1 is connected to one load or accessory, Terminal 3 is connected to another load or accessory. Terminal 2 is connected to power. The switch is always making one of the two connections and flips between them. As long as power is connected to the switch, one is always ‘On’.

In the below example the red light is illuminated in one position and the blue light is illuminated in the other position.

===================================================================================

3. DPDT Toggle Switch (Dual Position, Dual Throw)

A DPDT switch can be a bit confusing. It might be easiest to consider it to be two SPDT switches in one. They can connect two different power sources to two different loads or accessories at the same time. Here is a diagram.

A DPDT switch has six terminals. #3 and #4 connect to the power source. #1, 2, 5 and 6 are for the loads/accessories. In one position power from terminal 3 is connected to terminal 1, AND power from terminal 4 is connected to terminal 2. In the other position power from terminal 3 is connected to terminal 5 AND power from terminal 4 is connected to terminal 6.

Suppose you had a small cooling fan you wanted to run on cool days and a larger cooling fan you wanted to run on hot days. You wanted an indicator to signal which was being used – a blue light for the small fan, and a red light for the big fan. Here is how you might accomplish that with a DPDT switch. Note that either one or the other is running, there is no way to disconnect both fans and lights as long as power is running to the switch. (Radiator fans can draw a lot of current, this is an instance where a relay might be warranted – this is just an example of how a DPDT switch might be used)

SEE OTHER WIRING DEPOT TECH ARTICLES

CHECK OUT THESE WIRING DEPOT TECH VIDEOS

Trailer Wiring Troubleshooting and Tips

2017-04-28T16:18:00-05:00

Trailer Wiring Troubleshooting Tips and Tricks

Summer is nearly here and now is the time to get your trailer ready for summertime fun (or chores). One of the most important tasks is to make sure your lighting is working properly. Many of us will find that the winter has not been kind to our trailer’s wiring. It may have fallen victim to corrosion or rodents.

If your trailer’s wiring is giving you problems, here are some tips to help you get it back up and running.

1. Check the grounds. Ground issues are the number one cause of trailer wiring problems. When in doubt start there. Clean all ground connections. Ideally, each component will have its own ground to the trailer frame. If you are getting strangely flickering lights, your trailer may be grounding through the hitch vs through the trailer wiring connector. If the vehicle ground wire is stacked with other wires on one screw, consider moving it to its own screw or at least to the bottom of the stack.If your ground wire looks at all like this picture, the wiring could be corroded under the insulation and you should consider replacing the entire wire - or at least the last several feet.

2. Check any terminals or in-line connections. Replace old crimp only and non-sealed terminals with Crimp & Solder Seal Terminals. Crimp only terminals can often have a poor connection even though they feel tight. Corrosion can grow within them and even grow down through the strands of the wires. A sealed connection created by Crimp & Solder Seal terminals is stronger than the wires themselves, has no voltage drop across the connection, and prevents any contaminants from entering. Check out this video about Crimp & Solder seal terminals. They are available for purchase here.

3. Check any fuses. If you have a powered converter, make sure it’s fuse is still good. Check the lighting fuses on the tow vehicle. Check over the wiring on both the vehicle side and the trailer side for any in-line fuses and test. If you continue to experience blown fuses, you may be overloading the circuit – replacing trailer lighting with LEDs is one possible solution to this issue.

4. Determine whether the problem lies with the trailer wiring or the tow vehicle wiring. Test the trailer while not connected to the vehicle. You can take a vehicle side wiring harness and wire it to a standalone battery or ‘jumpstarter’ pack. Simply connect all the colored wires to the positive and the white wire to the negative. If your trailer's lights work properly with this setup, you'll know your issue lies with the tow vehicle.

5. Consider re-wiring. Wires can corrode from within making problems hard to find. Insulation can crack with age and cause shorts. Many times if your wiring has already been repaired several times, or is just getting old, it is more efficient to go ahead and rewire the trailer rather than continue to add band-aid fixes. Complete kits are inexpensive and can often be installed in an afternoon.

6. Check the grounds. Yes it is worth saying it again! Make sure your wiring has clean, secure grounds.

Understanding the types of Automotive Wire

2017-02-15T13:10:00-06:00

Understanding Wire Types

There are many types of electrical wire. Understanding which type is best for your application can be confusing. It is important to make the proper selection. Using the wrong type of wire can lead to failures and fires.

For this article, we will focus on the wire typically used in automotive, boat, RV, and motorcycle applications. Never use wire intended for household use in vehicles, it is not designed to handle the heat, vibration, and chemical exposure.

BEWARE of wire sold on discount sites, or any wire sold at too-good-to-be-true prices. Often this cheap wire is actually aluminum with a thin copper coating. Aluminum is only 60% as conductive as copper, so you'd have to use a much larger gauge to carry the same load. We also often see wire labeled as one guage thicker than it actually is, or has stiff/brittle insulation, or is contructed with fewer strands. For the record, Wiring Depot wire is manufactured in the USA and is constructed of 100% copper. We guarantee it to be true to spec/gauge and adhere to industry SAE standards - for instance our primary wire is ROHS compliant and made to SAE J1128 specifications.

1.“GPT” or “Primary” Wire

This is the most common wire you find at auto stores. As its name implies, it is a good general purpose automotive wire. It features a multi stranded core and flexible insulation making it ideal for pulling through tight spaces. It is usually rated to 80ºC (176ºF). Although some is also rated to 105ºC (221ºF). It is resistant to oil, chemicals and acids.

See our selection of Primary Wire HERE

2.“1015” “Hook-Up” or “Motor” Wire

The biggest difference between GPT and Motor wire is that motor wire features finer strands of wire. This allows it to handle higher voltages.

Motor wire is rated at 600 Volts with a temperature rating of 105ºC (221ºF). It is resistant to grease, oil, acids, water, solvents, fungus.

Although most commonly used as internal wiring in appliances and HVAC equipment, motor wire is finding increasing use in automotive applications.

See our selection of Motor Wire HERE

3. SXL Wire

SXL Wire features a cross linked polyethylene jacket that can withstand higher heat, abrasion, and aging better than GPT wire. It is often the preferred choice in higher stress applications like race or industrial use vehicles. If you are looking for extra durability, this is a good choice.

GXL and TXL wire feature the same type of insulation but thinner walls to make it easier to pull through tight spaces.

See our selection of SXL Wire HERE

4.Speaker Wire

Speaker wire is a paired stranded wire intended for audio applications. As the name implies it is meant to carry the 'sound' from a stereo receiver to the speakers. It is intended for low voltage use and should never be used to carry load. Speakers can run in 'reverse' (out of phase) but they will sound terrible - so it is important that the + and - terminals be connected correctly.

See our selection of Speaker Wire HERE

5. Battery Cable

Battery cable is typically used to connect the battery to the car’s electrical system (typically at the starter) and ground. It is larger gauge, heavier wire. Battery cables are most susceptible to corrosion, and can often be corroded inside the cable where it can’t be seen. If you are having starting issues, check your battery cables carefully.

See our selection of Battery Cable HERE

6. Trailer Wire

Trailer wire is typically GPT or Primary wire that is colored and configured for common trailer applications. Most trailers use a common coloring system that uses Green, Yellow, Brown, and White for the various lighting functions. Purchasing 'Trailer' Wire makes a trailer re-wiring or repair project simpler. It also helps in future diagnosis of problems.

See our selection of Trailer Wire HERE

Using Relays in Automotive Wiring

2017-01-02T14:22:00-06:00

Using Relays in Automotive Wiring

Relays are a mechanical device that can connect or disconnect power to an accessory when it gets a low voltage ‘signal’ from a switch. Some people may ask why they should bother using a relay when you can just wire an accessory directly through a switch to its power source. There are two main reasons why relays are utilized:

Using a relay keeps the higher voltage out of the passenger compartment of the vehicle and is just less taxing on your vehicle’s electrical system in general. If something were to fail and short, the chances of an interior fire are significantly reduced if a relay is utilized to allow the higher voltage switching occur in the engine compartment. This also reduces the load on the interior fuse panel by placing a smaller demand on it.
It allows the use of less heavy gauge wire. The longer the wire, the higher the resistance. By using a relay near the item being switched, you use less of the heavier gauge wire.

Some may argue that relays add an additional failure point to an electrical system. Although relays do eventually wear out after repeated use, the potential for failure can be reduced if they are replaced periodically, or you could wire two relays in parallel. If wired in parallel, one relay can fail and the other can continue to operate. This technique is commonly used in cooling fans.

Consider a typical user upgrade – adding fog lamps to the front of a vehicle. Many would tap into power at the fuse block, run it to a dash mounted switch, then back through the firewall all the way forward to the lights. Wiring with a relay allows the power to run straight from the battery, through the relay mounted nearby, directly to the lights. The interior mounted switch only draws minimal power though the interior fuse block to activate the relay.

Buy Relays, Pigtails, and Kits HERE

See below for an example of a relay wiring diagram. The color coding on the relay matches our relay harness pigtail.

Understanding the Different Types of Wire Terminals

2016-07-07T13:25:00-05:00

Determining which terminal is best for your particular application is often a difficult task. One of the most confusing parts is the wide variety in insulation types. There are non-insulated terminals, vinyl insulated terminals, nylon insulated terminals, and heat shrink insulated terminals. To make matters worse, within the heat shrink terminals there are crimp seal, solder seal and crimp & solder seal options. In hopes of making things simpler, here are some pros and cons of each. Think we missed something? Please let us know!

Non Insulated Terminals:

Pros:

Usually the least expensive option
Rated for 340° F - High temp options can handle up to 900° F
Crimp point is visible so you can see if you made a good connection
Installers can also solder or add heat shrink to create a better or sealed connection

Cons:

No insulation so they should not be used in places where they could short
Some of the high temp or heavy duty options require significant force or special tools to crimp
Not a sealed connection so they can be prone to corrosion
If only crimped, they can be prone to wires pulling out

See our selection of Non Insulated Terminals HERE

Vinyl Insulated Terminals:

Pros:

Usually the cheapest insulated option
Commonly available
Wide selection of options
Easy crimp on installation

Cons:

Rated for up to 220° F
Crimp area is not visible, so it can be hard to determine if you achieved a good crimp
Not a sealed connection so they can be prone to corrosion
Wires can be prone to pulling out

See our selection of Vinyl Terminals HERE

Nylon Insulated Terminals:

Pros:

Semi-Translucent insulation makes it easier to see if you’ve made a good connection
Most can be 'double-crimped' on the wire and the insulation, providing a stronger connection.
Nylon insulation is more flexible and less prone to cracking than Vinyl
More chemical resistant than vinyl
Wide selection of options
Easy crimp on installation

Cons:

Rated for up to 220° F
More expensive than vinyl
Not a sealed connection so they can be prone to corrosion
Wires can be prone to pulling out

See our selection of Nylon Terminals HERE

Heat Shrink Crimp Seal Terminals:

Pros:

Most common heat shrink terminal
Translucent insulation makes it easier to see if you’ve made a good connection
Heat shrink insulation is more flexible and abrasion resistant than vinyl or nylon
Heat shrink insulation provides a sealed connection to prevent corrosion
Heat shrink insulation with adhesive lining creates a connection that does not just rely on the crimp for strength, reducing the likelihood of wire pull out

Cons:

More expensive than nylon or vinyl terminals
Requires either a heat gun or butane torch to install properly

See our selection of Heat Shrink Crimp Seal Terminals HERE

Video Demo of Window Heat Shrink Terminals

Heat Shrink Solder Seal Terminals:

Pros:

Solder creates a stronger connection than crimp
Solder reduces or eliminates voltage drop across the connection
Can sometimes be used in tight situations where there is no room for a crimp tool
Translucent insulation makes it easier to see if you’ve made a good connection
Heat shrink insulation is more flexible and abrasion resistant than vinyl or nylon
Heat shrink insulation provides a sealed connection to prevent corrosion
Heat shrink insulation with adhesive lining creates a connection that does not just rely on the crimp for strength, reducing the likelihood of wire pull out

Cons:

More expensive than nylon or vinyl terminals
More difficult to use than crimp seal terminals
Requires either a heat gun or butane torch to install properly

See our selection of Heat Shrink Solder Seal Terminals HERE

Video Demo of Solder Seal Terminals

Heat Shrink Crimp & Solder Seal Terminals:

Pros:

Crimp & Solder creates a stronger connection than just crimp
Reduces or eliminates voltage drop – good for voltage sensitive sensor connections
Translucent insulation makes it easier to see if you’ve made a good connection
Heat shrink insulation is more flexible and abrasion resistant than vinyl or nylon
Heat shrink insulation provides a sealed connection to prevent corrosion
The combination of crimp, solder, and adhesive lined insulation makes a connection that is stronger than the wire itself. No risk of wire pull out.
Creates a permanent fix

Cons:

More expensive than regular heat shrink terminals
More difficult to use than crimp seal terminals
Requires either a heat gun or butane torch to install properly
Limited options available

See our selection of Heat Shrink Crimp & Solder Seal Terminals HERE

Video Demo of Wiring Depot Crimp & Solder Seal Terminals

SEE OTHER WIRING DEPOT TECH ARTICLES

CHECK OUT THESE WIRING DEPOT TECH VIDEOS

What is wire 'gauge' ?

2016-05-16T05:13:00-05:00

"Gauge" is a system for measuring wire thickness. It can be confusing because decreasing gauge numbers represent increasing wire diameter. For instance 10 gauge wire is thicker than 18 gauge wire. The naming has its roots in the number of times wire was drawn over a die to create a certain thickness. For instance, 10 gauge wire was drawn over the die ten times. Thinner wire required more draws. To make things more confusing, once the wire reaches "1" gauge, the numbers start going up again but are listed as 1/0, 2/0 etc. So 1/0 gauge wire is thicker than 1 gauge wire.

There used to be no standard to gauge listings, so one manufacturer's 14 gauge might have been different than anothers. This was because 14 draws over one manufacturer's dies might yeild a different result than 14 draws over another manufacturer's dies. There are two main standards now. AWG is "American Wire Gauge" and the listing of 'AWG' is often used generically to mean gauge. SAE is "Society of Automotive Engineers" and is specific to automotive wiring. For most purposes they are close enough that the differences don't matter, however SAE tends to be just a bit thinner than AWG. FYI, although our automotive wire may state 'AWG' in the product name, it is made to current SAE specs.

One thing gauge doesn't address is stranding. The gauge is based on what the wire thickness would be if comprised of one solid strand. Stranded wire offers several benefits over solid wire. More strands increases the flexibility of the wire, so it is preferred in applications where wire must bend, flex, or absorb vibration (like in a car or appliance vs. the walls of your house). Stranded wire also increases the surface area of the wire allowing it to carry more voltage than the equivalent solid/single strand wire.

When determining the proper wire gauge for your application, you should go to thicker (lower number) wire gauges as you increase the amperage carried (add more items to a circuit) or increase the the length of the wire. When in doubt, go to the next heavier gauge. Running too light / thin wire can increase resistance and lead to failures or even fires. Also pay attention to the source of the wire - gauge doesn't tell you everything. Many generic/discount wire manufacturers cheat the gauge spec a bit, or skimp on the copper content to reduce costs.

Here is a chart of suggested wire gauges for different distances and amperage. If you are at all unsure, please consult a professional.

Creative Uses for Heat Shrink Tubing

2016-03-21T12:46:00-05:00

Creative Uses for Heat Shrink Tubing:

Heat Shrink Tubing is one of those versatile items that can be used in many different ways. Once you get familiar with how it works, you’ll likely find it is an indispensable addition to your tool box along with duct tape and wire ties. We asked our customers and scoured the internet and compiled a list of some handy ways to utilize heat shrink tubing.

Add a grippy surface to tools. A piece of heat shrink tubing on box wrenches, crescent wrenches, channel locks, etc., can add grip texture and cushion. This is especially useful if the factory grip material has worn away. Use colored tubing to make your tools easy to spot amongst your co-workers.
Add insulation to tools. Heat shrink on the shafts of screwdrivers provides electrical insulation and reduces the likelihood of causing a short.
Prevent fraying of rope or cable. If you need to cut stranded rope or cable, add a section of heat shrink over the spot to be cut. Now when you cut the rope/cable, the ends won’t fray out. Small pieces can also be used to replace those little plastic ends on shoelaces – which are called ‘aglets’ BTW. Here is a guy who gets way into his shoelaces: http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/agletheatshrink.htm
Color coding. Use different colors to make the various size wrenches easy to spot. This is especially effective on hex wrenches. Place different colors over the heads of keys to make your car key stand out from the rest.
Labeling. Clear heat shrink can make it easy to label odd shaped and textured items. Make a label with some tape or a label maker, then heat shrink it to the item with clear tubing.
Stop rattles. Shrink tubing over sections of chain or other jangly items to prevent annoying rattles.
Prevent tangles. Shrink together multiple wires to keep them from tangling. This works really well on headphone wires.
Random repairs. Heat shrink tubing makes an effective temporary repair. For instance you can place heat shrink over the temple of glasses when you lose the screw.
Stop leaks. Shrink tubing over a leaky pipe or hose to create a temporary repair. Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing works best for this application.

Got a cool use for heat shrink not listed here? Post up and share!

All About Sleeving & Wire Loom

2016-01-18T11:53:00-06:00

Which tubing or sleeving option is right for you?

Wiring Depot offers a wide variety of tubing – it can be confusing deciding which is best for your application. Here is a quick rundown of some of the more popular types.

Flex Guard Split Loom Tubing:

Split Loom Tubing is one of our most popular products. It is a quick way to protect and beautify wires, cables, hoses, etc. This tubing has a split down the side so it can be used over pre-installed cables. It is commonly found in automotive engine compartments to organize and protect wiring. The most common form of split loom tubing is polyethylene - which is great for most general applications up to 200F. It is also available in a variety of colors and sizes.

Have a cat or dog that likes chewing on wires? Many owners of destructive pets have found their animals don’t like the taste or texture of split loom tubing and leave it alone.

Nylon and Flame retardant versions for heavy duty applications are also available.

Installing long lengths of split loom can be rough on your fingers. If you have a larger job, consider getting a split loom installation tool. It also makes the installation much faster!

Spiral Cut Tubing:

Spiral cut tubing wraps around the wire. It can be used in shorter sections to bundle wires into groups. It is easy to install, remove, or extract one wire from the group. The spiral split has more of a springy characteristic which allows it to expand a bit and fit over a wider range wires. It also doesn’t allow wires to pop out of the bundle in corners as can sometimes happen with split loom.

Asphalt Coated Fabric Loom:

Asphalt loom can withstand higher temperatures, is flame resistant, and is more abrasion and chemical resistant that split loom tubing. It has no split, so wire installation is more challenging. It was commonly found in older cars and motorcycles, so it is popular with enthusiasts who prefer an authentic look.

Expandable Sleeving:

Expandable sleeving is most frequently seen in electronics but is also used in many automotive and marine applications. Because it can expand to double its resting diameter, it is handy when you need to protect or bundle wires that have bulky ends already installed.

Standard expandable sleeving should be cut with a hot knife to prevent fraying, however “clean cut” sleeving can be cut with standard scissors. Flame retardant versions are also available for extreme applications.

12 Cool Facts About Cable Ties

2015-10-19T12:05:00-05:00

12 Cool Facts About Cable Ties!

Next to duct tape, the cable tie is one of the handiest things to have in your toolbox. In addition to bundling groups of wire they are used as emergency fasteners, to secure products in packaging, hanging Christmas lights, and are even used in arts and crafts (try searching google images for “cable tie lamp shade” or “cable tie fashion”).

Here are 12 cool facts you might not know about the amazing cable tie.

Cable ties are known by many different names including zip tie, wire tie, zipper tie, wire wrap, hose tie, rat belt, mouse belt, and the original brand name Ty-Rap.
They can be reused. Yes, even the ones not specifically designed to be re-useable. Just slide something under the jaw that engages the grooves of the tie – like a fine screwdriver or needle. Sometimes the jaw can even be pulled back from the teeth with a fingernail. Of course the tie may not be as strong on the next use.
Black is the best color if used where the cable tie will be exposed to sunlight. The black carbon additive used to achieve the color also provides UV protection.
Cable ties are not all the same. Ties from different manufacturers can vary greatly in strength - even if they are the same length, width and color. For critical applications, check the tensile strength rating and be wary of ties that are old or have been exposed to sunlight for extended periods. Avoid no-name ties sold at discount stores.
Cable ties were invented by an engineer at Thomas & Betts in 1958. They were originally marketed under the name Ty-Rap. Previous to the invention of cable ties, nylon cord was tied around bundles of wire – a process that was tedious and hard on the hands of workers.
If nylon cable ties aren’t strong or durable enough for your application, there are metal versions available. Metal cable ties have the additional benefit of being flame proof.
If your cable tie is too short, you can join two together. Just insert the tapered end of one into the jaw of the other until it engages the teeth. Clip the excess ‘tail’ and now you have a longer tie!
The original design was two pieces and had a metal ‘jaw’ or pawl that engaged the teeth of the strap.
Nail clippers are excellent for cutting cable ties and reduce the risk of injury. If nail clippers are not available, wire cutters should be used. If you must use a knife, don’t saw at the tie (can damage what it is tying), or put the knife under the tie and cut by pulling towards you.
Specialty cable ties are used by law enforcement as a substitute for handcuffs. They are used in particular with large volume arrests (protests and riots for example). They have the benefit of being disposable so there is no risk of transferring germs from multiple uses.
Billions of cable ties are produced yearly, with some estimates as high as 100 billion. They are manufactured by more than 45 companies worldwide.
Many are used as a temporary attachment. It is estimated 70-80% are in use for less than one year.

Sources:

Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cable_tie
Sci-Tie: http://www.sci-tie.com/Facts.php

Heat Shrink 101

2015-09-16T11:58:00-05:00

Heat Shrink Tubing

Heat Shrink Tubing is a shrinkable plastic tube used to insulate wires and provide abrasion resistance. It is also used to bundle groups of wires, or provide identification. Heat shrink tubing will shrink its diameter when heated to a specific temperature, with little or no shrinkage along its length.

Polyolefin is the most commonly used heat shrink tubing material. It is used by military, automotive, railway and aerospace industries.

Other materials include PTFE, Viton, Silicon Rubber and PVC.

Shop our entire selection of Heat Shrink Tubing HERE.

Single vs. Dual Heat Shrink

Basic 2:1 Single / Thin wall tubing is the most common. This tubing provides a good seal against water and other contaminants. It also strengthens connections, reducing the likelihood they can pull apart. However it achieves this through friction only and typically does not bond with the material it shrinks to. Shop Single/Thin Heat Shrink Tubing HERE.

“Dual” Wall or Adhesive Lined tubing features an adhesive lining. It melts as the tubing contracts forming a truly sealed connection. It also dramatically increases the strength of connections, even making it stronger than the wires themselves. Shop Dual Wall Heat Shrink Tubing HERE and HERE.

When to use:

Heat Shrink tubing has many uses. It can be found just about anywhere there are cables and wires. It has functions both for protection and insulation as well as cosmetic.

Seal water and other contaminants out of wire connections
Provide electrical insulation
Insulate against extreme heat
Color code wire for easy identification
Bundle multiple wires together
Cleanly terminate ends of braided sleeving
Improve the overall look of large amounts of wiring

Shop Heat Shrink Tubing HERE.

Heat Shrink Terminals:

To take advantage of the benefits of heat shrink tubing in wire connections it used to have to be a separate process. You’d have to remember to place a section of tubing on the wire before connecting it. That isn’t the case anymore. You can now create a connection and seal with heat shrink in one process, thanks to Heat Shrink Terminals. These use heat shrink tubing as the insulation on crimp, solder, and crimp and solder terminals. See our entire selection of Heat Shrink Terminals HERE.

Curious about how Heat Shrink is made? Here is an excerpt from Wikipedia:

"Heat shrink tubing was invented by Raychem Corporation. It is manufactured from a thermoplastic material such as polyolefin, fluoropolymer (such as FEP, PTFE or Kynar), PVC, neoprene, silicone elastomer or Viton.

The process for making heat-shrink tubing is as follows: First the material is chosen based on its properties. The material is often compounded with other additives (such as colorants, stabilizers, etc.) depending on the application. A starting tube is extruded from the raw material. Next, the tube is taken to a separate process where it is cross-linked, usually through radiation. The cross-linking creates a memory in the tube. Then the tube is heated to just above the polymer's crystalline melting point and expanded in diameter, often by placing it in a vacuum chamber. While in the expanded state it is rapidly cooled. Later, when heated (above the crystalline melting point of the material) by the end user, the tubing shrinks back to its original extruded size.

The material is often cross-linked through the use of electron beams, peroxides, or moisture. This cross-linking creates the memory in the tubing so that it is able to shrink back to its original extruded dimensions upon heating.

For external use, heat shrink tubing often has a UV stabilizer added." See the whole article HERE.

How to Wire an Illuminated Rocker Switch

2015-08-17T16:07:00-05:00

An illuminated rocker switch is like a SPST toggle switch with an extra terminal which allows the light to work. You might want to review the article on toggle switch wiring before proceeding. Also relays can be used to switch higher draw accessories to reduce switch load and voltage drop.

Toggle Switch Wiring

Relay Wiring

Most rocker switches are of the “single position, single throw” variety. That is what we will be covering here. In one position the switch is ‘open’ and no connection is made. In the other position it is ‘closed’ and the accessory is connected to power.

Most switches will be labeled “Power”, “ACC” or “Accessory”, and “Ground”. The switch opens and closes the connection between “Power” and “ACC”. “Ground” is connected to the vehicle ground and is needed for the light to work. If your connections are not labeled, you will need to test them with a multimeter or determine which is which through trial and error. Note most switches will not illuminate if they are on the 'ground' side of the accessory.

Here is an example of how you might wire up an auxiliary fan. Note if terminal 3 “Ground” was not connected, the switch would still operate the fan, but you would not get illumination. Note this is just an illustration of how the switch works. A fuse should usually be included, and a relay utilized in higher amperage applications.

If you are unsure of anything, we recommend having your wiring work performed by a professional. Improper wiring can result in damage to components and even fires.

Typical Project Materials:

Heat Shrink Butt Connectors and Disconnect Terminals

=================================================================

SEE OTHER WIRING DEPOT TECH ARTICLES

CHECK OUT THESE WIRING DEPOT TECH VIDEOS

What are Clear Window Butt Connectors?

2015-03-18T10:50:00-05:00

What are Clear Window Butt Connectors?

Check out Wiring Depot’s line of Sealed Heat Shrink WINDOW connectors. These connectors are often overlooked because users don't understand its many features. They are a significant improvement over traditional crimp connectors. The heat shrink insulation ensures a sealed connection that won’t corrode. Plus, clear window butt connectors offer a unique opportunity to visually inspect the integrity of your electrical connection.

Clear Window Butt Connectors offer the following visual assurances:
• Ensures the wire is crimped to connector
• Ensures the center of crimp barrel is properly crimped
• Clearwaterproof insulation allows for indisputable inspection of the wire’s condition

Components:

The Crimp Barrel:
• Window in center of connector assures that wire is seated properly and that the wire is being crimped to the connector
• Color-coded stripes identify wire gauge size to be used with connector
• Color-coded stripes also indicate/guide the installer to the proper crimp position on the
center of the barrel
• Seamless barrel butt connectors ensure superior crimp performance
• Wire-stop in butt connectors prevents over insertion of wire

The Adhesive-Lined Heat Shrink Tubing:
• Cleartubing provides optimal clarity for visual inspection
• Adhesive-Lined tubing ensures a waterproof seal
• Wire gauge imprint simplifies wire size identification

Buy them HERE.